detour: angel island

While Mark Twain may not have actually said “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco," it is not wrong! Which is why the best San Francisco trips happen in the Fall!

leaving Tiburon on the ferry

I enjoy being a tourist in my home state, and clear blue skies greeted our ferry as we crossed the San Francisco bay from Tiburon to Angel Island. You have to get there by ferry or personal boat, but kayaking in San Francisco bay is far beyond my abilities! The last time I was here I was when I was a kid, and all I remember was riding my bike around. Discovering places as an adult is much more interesting.

not a bad view

Angel Island is the largest island in the bay, and it is a weird combination of nature and historical buildings, but all with amazing views. I wanted to explore the trails first, and headed up the hill. It isn't much of a hill, only 788 feet tall, but from zero sea level it was a pretty good hike. The trails switchbacked up the hill, different views at each turn. There were some deer and birds, but that was it. (I later saw on an informational panel that there are no squirrels, rabbits, opossums, skunks or predators on the island. How strange! It did not tell me if they had all been hunted or why that was the situation).

the fog just offshore

vulture with a view

At the top of the hill was a radio tower, then down, down, down to the old Cold War Nike missile site. Nothing to see any longer, just a sign describing how it was decommissioned in the 1960s, and the island given to the state. But further on the old army barracks stand deserted, grass growing through cracks of giant structures, and no one else around. It was great (It seems like most people stay in the easy-to-access places, get a little off path and empty streets surrounded us).

abandoned barracks

last one out, please turn off the lights

there was a whole military town

sadly, no horses now, but look at all these!

Walking more around the perimeter road we get to the immigration station, with an ugly history of interrogating detained Chinese immigrants. Some buildings still exist, but now there is an effort to create an awareness with signage and memorials. This area seems so removed, again the odd island juxtaposition of immigration/military/nature.

immigration memorial

also called "Ellis Island of the West"

massive oak

If you're on an island you have to find a beach. In gusting wind the sharp sand blew into my sandwich, (mmm, crunchy) but it was worth it. A city view, boats on the water, warm sand: an interesting island.

sand, water, blue skies and distant bridges